Here is a helpful list of tools you might need or come across in a Subi workshop …


  • L Series Cam-belt Tension Tool
  • EA81 Tappet Adjuster
  • Head Bolt Spanner
  • E10 Torx Socket
  • Clutch Alignment Tool
  • Gudgeon Puller
  • CV Puller
  • CV Boot Band Tightener

1985 - 1994 L Series (Leone) Cam-belt (Timing Belt) Tension Tool

You don't need a special tool (as described in Gregory's and factory manuals) to hold the cam sprockets when you tension the cam-belt. All I did was drill two holes in a wooden peg and put two bolts through it. The distance for me was 8.6cm between bolt centres. Bolts 5mm wide were used. You only need this tool to hold the sprocket in place so that it does not turn while you tension. There is no need to pull or put any torque on it.

EA81 Tappet adjuster

Used on Subaru's with 5mm square drive valve adjustment screws with a 12mm jam nut. This two in one tool features a window in its 12mm socket so the technician can see the position of the 5mm socket while it holds the adjustment screw as the 12mm jam nut is tightened. The unique handle pivots from one side to the other, so the window is always visible.


Makes adjusting tappets dead easy …

Head Bolt Spanner

You'll need something like this to Torque up the head bolts :


E10 Torx socket

To safely remove stub axles from a rear diff, you need a 1/4" E10 Torx deep socket (snap-on part# STLE100). These are hard to come by, best thing to do is flag down a snap-on truck. Failing that a 1/4" 8mm socket can be used, but make sure it's a soft one so that it will be damaged before the stub axle nut.

Clutch Alignment tool

When fitting a new clutch it is necessary to align it with the Pilot bearing before tightening the Pressure Plate bolts. To make an alignment tool is surprisingly easy, the job requires only very basic lathe skills, a 200mm length of bar stock, 25mm diameter, an old clutch plate and pilot bearing of the same type to be fitted, and a vernier.
• The measurements l am using are for an EA-81, D/R, 4 speed using the large clutch. Diameter measurements for your particular application are taken from inside diameters of your clutch and pilot bearing.
To start,
• Place the bar stock in a 3 jaw lathe chuck. Turn down face of bar end for a center hole and drill with centre drill.
• Set bar to protrude 3" out of the chuck and tighten, fit center to centre hole, set and clamp.
• With a new cutting steel or tip, turn from the end of the bar towards the chuck, a step 55mm long and reduce this step to 19.5mm diameter and you are left with a 19.5mm diameter end on your rod, 55mm long. When you have done this you should be able to slide your clutch snugly along this cut to the step 55mm in so remove center on bar end and check.
• Working without the center, reset your bar in the chuck to this step and tighten. Start turning down the end of the 19.5mm diam. bar 15mm towards the chuck to 12mm diameter. Your pilot bearing should now slide snugly along this new cut to the step 15mm in.
• Remove sharp edges with a file, remove from lathe and that's it.

Gudgeon pin puller

You'll need one of these to get the pin out of pistons …


( more details when I find it )

CV Puller

Subaru invented a puller to drag the CV shaft through the wheel bearings on both the front and rear of MY, Brumby. Don't be scared of the manual telling you can't do it without it. Using plenty of grease and a soft faced hammer GENTLY tap the CV into place until you can get a nut on the thread. Then use a suitable lever to pull the CV through. Some are tougher than others, the key is to get the CV lined up and jiggle the outer CV joint when it won't move.

CV Boot Band Tightener

Handy device for tightening those bands on CV boots …


( There's a link somewhere on here )


I will try & find links / images to enhance this page … Cheers, Bantum …

Some other tools :


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